The Tower of London

I’m sorry, but I can’t simply gloss over The Tower of London. It deserves an entire blog.

The Tower of London is a UNESCO World Heritage site and an absolute must if you visit London. It is number one on my top 10 list. 

The Tower was commissioned in 1078 by William the Conqueror. It is a massive stone fortress that sits alongside the River Thames. A good vantage point for William to guard against attack. Over the years, the Tower has served as a castle for kings and queens, an armory, a mint, a prison, and even a zoo. Today, the Tower remains a royal palace but is no longer a royal residence -meaning that King Charles could move in, but he chooses not to. I don’t blame him. The castle doesn’t look that comfortable. However, by medieval standards, I understand it was pretty luxurious.

It featured indoor “plumbing” -which dropped several stories down the side of the castle wall.

More importantly, it was secure, surrounded by a moat, and heavily guarded by soldiers.

Today, the moat (once very smelly) is thankfully dry. But the soldiers are still on guard. This castle remains a formidable enough fortress to protect The Royal Jewels. The soldiers entrusted with this task and its care are the Yeoman Warders, aka Beefeaters. You know, the ones on the gin bottles. 

The Yeoman were originally the king’s personal bodyguards. In the 1500s, Henry VIII decreed that they would also stay and guard the Tower, and they’ve been doing that ever since. 

Nowadays, the Beefeaters conduct tours. But do not be fooled. These tour guides are soldiers, and their costumes are uniforms. 

But back to The Royal Jewels!

Everything is on display: the crowns, the scepters, the coronation gown, the ring… 

Pictures are not permitted, but I saw all of this.

You will see St. Edward’s Crown, which is only used at the moment of crowning itself. Also on display are The Imperial State Crown, The Imperial Crown of India, Queen Victoria’s Crown, Queen Mary’s, Queen Alexandra’s…as well as the Coronation Banqueting Plate. What’s that? These are the serving pieces used to feast and celebrate after a coronation. Salts, Fountains, Caddinets… Who knew?

I may be unfamiliar with salts and caddinets, but I did recognize the punch bowl, which weighs 546 lbs and holds 240 bottles of wine! It was stunning, gold, intricate, priceless, and, I’m sure very old.

Go to The Tower to view the jewels, but be sure to take The Tower tour.

On the tour, you’ll learn all sorts of interesting historical facts, including The Tower’s role as a place of torture and execution. 

This was the gate (affectionately called Traitor’s Gate) where prisoners would be brought into the Tower, arriving by boat (often at night) from the River Thames. 

This was the courtyard where, in 1533, Anne Boleyn (one of Henry VIII’s eight wives) was beheaded for adultery and treason. Right. 

Leading up to the execution, she was held in the same rooms that Henry VIII had modernized for his new bride only three years prior. The very same ones where she and Henry feasted and celebrated her coronation. She is said to haunt the place. 

Another resident ghost is Arabella Stuart, a cousin of Elizabeth I. Apparently, she starved to death after being arrested for marrying without royal permission. 

But I think the saddest and darkest story is that of the boy princes (aged 10 and 12) who “disappeared” in 1483. These two were the sons of Edward IV, who happened to be fighting over the throne with his cousin, Henry VI. The boys were held at The Tower of London for their protection but unfortunately appear to have been victims of an inner-family power play.

In 1674, the remains of two boys (aged around 10 and 12) were found buried beneath the staircase in the White Tower. 

But there’s more to this palace than its gruesome history.       

 Arms and armor were made here until the 1800s, and many pieces are still on display today. 

This gorgeous armor, decorated with scenes from Alexander the Great’s life, was made for a teenage Henry, Prince of Wales in about 1607.

This set belonged to Henry VIII and his horse sometime during his reign between 1509-1547.

I call this one Protector of the Family Jewels.

At one time, the palace was also home to a menagerie of exotic animals. From the 1200s until the 1800s, monarchs collected animals such as lions, tigers, pumas, elephants, polar bears, and baboons as trophies of England’s military and trading power. Can you imagine approaching the Tower and hearing the roar of lions? As if the imposing facade wasn’t intimidating enough!

Wire animals created by sculptor Kendra Haste are placed throughout the grounds in the areas where they were held.    

Today, the animals that famously inhabit The Tower are the Ravens. 

According to legend, if the ravens ever leave the Tower, it and the kingdom will fall. So, who do you think cares for these birds? The soldiers, of course!   

Don’t skip a visit to the chapel. Here is the final resting place of three queens of England all executed within the Tower: Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane Grey, and Catherine Howard.

Catherine Howard married 49-year-old Henry VIII at the tender age of 16. One year later, she was found guilty of treason due to adultery, of course. Before her execution, poor Catherine apparently requested that the block be sent to her so that she could practice kneeling before it.

The chapel is still in use. You see, the Yeoman Warders live within the Tower walls. These soldiers and their families live inside the fortress, protecting it and the Royal Jewels 24/7. On hand is a chaplain, a doctor, and a pub. What else does one need? 

If you’re a Yeoman, you better think of it before curfew because the Tower gate gets locked at 10:00 pm every night in a ceremony called the Ceremony of the Keys. For the past 700 years, the sentry has called out, “Halt, who comes here?” To which the Yeoman Warder replies, “The keys.”

“Who’s keys?” “King Charles’ keys.” “Pass then, all’s well.” 

Go check it out.

Pass then, intrepid traveler. All was certainly not well for much of its history, but it’s a fascinating stop and number one on my top 10 places to visit in London.