Indian Ruins

Recently, at a party, a young lady asked for my summer travel recommendations. I gave my new friend lots of great ideas for her vacation, which gave me lots of inspiration for my blog. 

For the most part, travel this summer is restricted to within the United States. So, of course, I told her she must go to New Orleans. I also mentioned the charming southern cities of Savannah and Charleston. I suggested Jackson Hole and Yellowstone if she’s the outdoorsy type. But the show stopper recommendation, and the one she grabbed her phone to record, was the Indian Ruins, specifically: Mesa Verde, Chaco Canyon, and Canyon de Chelly. So, this blog is for her. And also for you, if you’re interested in America’s Indian ruins. 

One of my favorite areas in the U.S. is the Four Corners, where Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico meet. This area is RICH with Native American ruins, parks, monuments, and canyons. Mesa Verde National Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is the most well known. 

In Mesa Verde, you can explore ancient cliff dwellings made by Pueblo ancestors. These dwellings were abandoned in 1300 and sat undisturbed for nearly 600 years until some cowboys discovered them in the late 1800s. In 1906, the site became a national park. Be sure to go while you’re young and mobile because gaining access to the cliff dwellings involves hiking, climbing, and crawling. Following a short hike, you have to climb up several steep and dangerously high ladders to the pueblos. Then, once inside, you’ll have to crawl on your hands, knees, and bellies through narrow passages to keep up with the tour. However, if you’re past that sort of physical activity, don’t despair. It’s still spectacular to drive through the park and view the ruins from afar.  

Two and a half hours away, you’ll find Chaco Canyon: a National Historical Park and another World Heritage Site. These ruins have a completely different look and feel. This site is sacred to both the Hopi and Pueblo people. Archeologists believe the area was a central meeting place with cultural and spiritual significance and function. And it does feel like a spiritual place.

On one of my visits, I saw a Native American woman standing on a cliff overlooking the canyon. She was beating a drum and singing in her native language. Her song reverberated through the canyon and right through my body. Of course, I didn’t understand what she was saying, but it definitely felt like she was connecting with a higher power. 

The remoteness, no doubt, also lends to the feeling of transcendence. The entrance to the site is down a long dirt road. I was a little worried about our rental car making the bumpy drive. But, to our compact, economy car’s credit, we made it. However, you may want to wear a sports bra for that drive. 

There are no overnight accommodations other than tent camping. To camp, you’ll have to plan ahead, make a reservation, and pack all the gear. But if you’re just visiting for the day in a rental car, be sure you leave before sunset because there will be NO light guiding you back down that dusty road. 

Three hours from there, another site I love and recommend visiting is Canyon de Chelly. This is a national monument with cliff dwellings, petroglyphs, and pictographs dating back to the same period. Canyon de Chelly sits on Navajo land and is only accessible with a Navajo guide. Our guide drove us through the canyon on top of a giant open-air, all-terrain vehicle. Having a Navajo guide show us around his home was the only way to see it. …through his eyes. But not everyone on the tour could pivot from their own personal perspective. I remember our guide stopped the vehicle to talk to a group of his friends who rode up on horseback. They had several dogs with them, and some of the people on the tour started expressing pity for the dogs. I guess because they were dirty and drinking out of puddles? I’m not sure. But I heard several people saying things like, “Those poor dogs.” “I feel sorry for them.” I wanted to say, “Why would you feel sorry for them? They’re running off-leash with their pack of humans, horses, and fellow dogs.” To me, it looked like they were living a dog’s dream.

I think it would be beautiful to visit in all seasons, even in the snowy winter. However, I checked, and currently, Canyon de Chelly is not open due to Covid. The pandemic exposed the disparities and vulnerability of the Navajo Nation and remains closed in compliance with a Navajo Nation Public Health Order. But check back because, in my opinion, this canyon gives The Grand Canyon a run for its money.