Do You Know What IT Means To Miss New Orleans?

I do.   

I bid for layovers. My favorites change with time. But one constant, unwavering love affair I have stayed true to is with the city of New Orleans. 

New Orleans has everything appealing to me. It’s a party in the streets and everyone’s invited. Come as you are or who you wish you were. Because whatever that may be, you’re invited to be more of it there. New Orleans is open-minded, a little gritty, and totally unique. Second line jazz parades? Mardi Gras Indians? You won’t see that in Nebraska. Even the flavors in the food are a fascinating mixture of history and culture colliding. In fact, the food tastes like the city itself: rich, sensual, and gluttonous. New Orleans feels foreign but requires no passport. Its architecture is romantic and its history wicked. It celebrates life and art in all its forms. And from the first moment I stepped off the plane, I was totally and utterly seduced. 

My first introduction to New Orleans was a hot, humid summer.  Mom and I stayed at a one-star hotel in the Garden District. Our room had a window air conditioner. However, the hall did not. We had to walk down the hall to get to the shared bathroom and the door handle felt like there was a fire on the other side.  The owners were, however, very hospitable as all people in New Orleans are.  The highlight of that trip was a swamp tour.  We saw plenty of alligators, but we were just as fascinated by the stick houses and the people living out there. I remember a little boy, looking like Huck Finn in his worn jeans and bare feet, rowing a canoe through the swamp, as at ease as a kid riding a bike through the suburbs. 

During that first trip, I felt totally captivated by the sights, sounds, and tastes of that city. But what I remember most was the very strange feeling of connection I had as soon as I arrived. A feeling washed over me like I was home. Like I had lived there in a past life. It was very odd, and I have never experienced it again, anywhere. Because I feel this inexplicable pull, I return as often as I can on layovers.

Early in my career, I often found myself there during Mardi Gras. Obviously, Mardi Gras in my twenties was pretty memorable. Previously, I had had no idea how people got those beads… wink, wink. Some of my favorite layover memories happened on those occasions: Carlos showing up the morning after draped in 20 pounds of beads, Mary telling me, “just go with it,” a picture of proper, English Ellie sitting on top of some guy’s shoulders, and then our flight canceling in the morning. God took pity on us.

More recently, I’ve been fortunate enough to layover during Jazz Fest. The tickets are expensive ($100). So, I went alone. I wasn’t sure if I’d have fun at a music festival by myself. But, Oh My God! I had so much fun, I traded into the next weekend to go again. And then again the following year. (Sadly, 2020 canceled. Maybe next year?) At Jazz Fest, I finally got to see those beautiful Mardi Gras Indians parade. I got to taste my first snowball dripping in nectar and topped with condensed milk. I met interesting people, even got invited to dinner by some lovely ladies visiting from London. And the music! Los Lobos, Jack White, Ellis Marsalis… 

But my hands-down favorite MSY layover was when I brought my nephew, Ian. Since he’s a bartender and has recently caught the travel bug, I knew he would love it. He did. We started the day at Brennan’s with a quintessential New Orleans brunch: Eggs Hussarde, turtle soup, and champagne. With our bellies full, we could responsibly start our bar hopping. He wanted to go to all the iconic bars where iconic drinks had been invented. Cocktails are serious business in New Orleans. Bartending is a craft. And drinking is an art.

We started at The Carousel Bar with milk punch. Then we went to The Roosevelt for Sazeracs and Ramos Fizz. Ian also ordered a finger’s width of a very expensive and very rare whisky he spotted on a shelf behind the bar. He was pretty excited to try that one. After we sent my brother (his dad) a picture of me posing passed out on the bar, we moved to Frenchman Street. But first, we made a detour to view the Banksy street art. We’d met some locals at the bar who told us how to get there, but eventually, just took us. Next, we hit Congo Square for a little sightseeing, then stopped at Cafe du Monde for a snack. Ian LOVED the beignets. On our way to Lafitte’s Blacksmith Bar (oldest bar in New Orleans and maybe the U.S), we stopped into a record store where Ian picked up $100 worth of records. Eventually, we made our way to dinner at Compere Lapin. By then, I was toasted! So when Ian ordered Steak Tartare, I tried it. It came in a jar with a layer of fat over it which we spread onto a cracker. It was Delicious! Feeling drunk and adventurous, I ordered the goat. Not as delicious.  Following dinner, I had to drop out because I had to work the morning flight home. Ian kept going…

He stumbled back in the middle of the night. Pickup was in two hours. Too soon, the alarm went off. I turned on all the lights and kept trying to rouse Ian. Last try; “Ian, are you coming?” Ian’s eyes pop open, “Do I have time to wash my face?” Me: “You have ten minutes.” Ian: “Never mind, I’ll just go have a cigarette.” Miraculous! Well, the miracle of being in your twenties.      

I have so many favorites in New Orleans, but if I had to list a few recommendations, I would say:

Bar: Arnaud’s. It’s stunning! Order a French 75 and the potato pillows appetizer.

Breakfast: Brennan’s. Be sure to get the turtle soup, say yes to the sherry pour, and use the restroom upstairs so you can snoop around and see the absolutely beautiful party rooms. By the way, Bananas Foster was invented here, so if you like a sweet breakfast… 

Lunch: 

1. Antoine’s. It is the oldest restaurant in New Orleans and where Oysters Rockefeller was invented. They have a lunch special 3-courses for the price of the year, at least they used to. So, $20.21? Also 25 cent cocktails. They’re tiny and not very good, but come on..25cents? The dining room is beautiful and the staff is so friendly. Ask for a tour, they’re happy to show you around and you’ll get to see the back dining room, which has a completely different personality, the private party rooms, and the gigantic wine cellar. 

2. Palace Cafe. This is another Brennan-owned restaurant. I love, love the crabmeat cheesecake. An unfortunate name, but trust me! It’s a perfect blend of New Orleans French with its rich sauce and pecan crust. Be sure to ask for bread and butter. I’m not sure how or why, but the bread in New Orleans is SO good and unlike anywhere else. During the month of August, it’s so hot in New Orleans that the restaurants have to entice people to eat with “Coolinary” specials. At the Palace Cafe, they have a temperature lunch: chef’s choice appetizer and entree for the price of yesterday’s temperature. So, if it was 98 degrees the day before, the lunch will cost $9.80. 

3. Friday lunch party at Galatoire’s. I still have yet to fully experience the festivities, but when I walked in, I actually started laughing out loud. It was a wild, crazy party. There was even some guy playing a tuba. Unfortunately, I had to sit upstairs because I didn’t have a reservation. After lunch, I asked if I could buy a plate with Galatoire’s written on it. Typical of New Orleans hospitality, I was seated at the bar, served a complimentary glass of champagne while the manager scoured the kitchen, and then called all the antique stores in the area. When he came up empty, he brought me glasses that said Galatoire’s, special Mardi Gras beads, a “reserved” table sign, and a commemorative birthday pen. He said, “because I missed your birthday!” WOW! The hospitality in that town is legendary. But now that I think about it, he may have been hitting on me?     

Happy Hour: 

1. Brennan’s courtyard has champagne happy hour specials. You can sip your Dom Perignon while you watch the turtles swim in the fountain. If you’re there during the hottest months, they make boozy snow cones to go. (In New Orleans it’s legal to walk around the streets drinking) These snow cones, they call snowballs, are so refreshing and delicious, mixing inventive simple syrups with what else…champagne! 
2. Muriel’s. If it’s not too hot, I like to sit out on the balcony overlooking Jackson Square. There’s always a lot to watch between the street performers and the tourists. Poke around the party rooms at Muriel’s too, and don’t miss the table set for the dead. The place is haunted.  

Anytime: Cafe du Monde. This institution is open 24 hours and cash only. It’s not hype, it’s really good. Here’s a tip… if there is a long line, skip it and check inside. There’s almost always a table open inside. Another thing I like to do is to get a frozen cafe au lait from the takeout window. Adding a vodka mini is optional, but recommended.

*TOURS: I’m a huge tourist, and as a former tour guide myself, I highly recommend them. I retain none of the information imparted, but enjoy the experience nonetheless. While there are lots of great, worthwhile tours in New Orleans, not all are created equally. Feel free to reach out to me if you want more specifics. But these are my top three tour choices: (and do all three if you have time) 

1. Cemetery Tour. You must. Their above-ground cemeteries remind me of Paris, but New Orleans has a way of putting its own unique spin on everything. The cemeteries are picturesque, and just the right amount of falling to pieces. Be sure to go with a tour; I’m told they can be dangerous.   

2. Swamp Tour. Truly transporting. And depending on where you’re from, probably a new experience. It was for this Texas girl. And my daughter, a California girl, says it’s the most beautiful place she’s ever been. 

3. Plantation Tour. There are several options close to the city. I have visited Oak Alley and Laura Plantations. Oak Alley looks like the plantation in your head: very traditional. Laura has creole architecture and is painted in bright colors which stand in contrast to its dark history. You’ll visit both the big house and the slave quarters. It’s a moving and important experience.

But don’t take my word for it. Go! Wander around the Quarter and let the city overwhelm your senses. And then tell me your recommendations. Because I’ll want to go too!