Dachau is located outside of Munich, the city where Hitler rose to power and kept the Nazi Party headquarters. Dachau was the Third Reich’s longest-operating camp. Opened (by Heinrich Himmler) in 1933, it operated the entire 12 years of the Nazi regime. At least 41,500 souls were killed behind these gates until American troops liberated the camp on April 29, 1945. On a recent layover, I went to see it for myself.
You enter, as the prisoners did, through a wrought iron gate adorned with Nazi propaganda.

“Work Sets You Free”
You are now enclosed within a massive courtyard where prisoners had to stand for hours during daily roll call.

The barracks are to the left. There were thirty-two. Today, only two reconstructed barracks remain.

However, the foundations of the other 30 barracks stand witness to their history. Surrounded by watch towers, the perfectly symmetrical foundation blocks resemble rows of graves, creating the feeling of a memorial.

A reconstructed barbed wire fence leads to the crematorium.

The rest of the camp’s buildings are original. These include the first crematorium, which became too small, the larger crematorium, the gas chamber, and the corpse room, where bodies awaited the ovens.
I didn’t take any pictures of these buildings out of respect. And horror.
But one image seared into my mind: a sign over the door that reads “Bausebad,” “Shower Bath.”
Another image I carry is a photograph hanging in the corpse room. It documents the days following the camp’s liberation when the American troops forced the German citizens living in the surrounding area to file through and view the emaciated corpses piled in that room.
But the image that finally completely broke me was a photo of a young prisoner inside the administrative building. This building was where the prisoners were “admitted.” It now houses an exhibition documenting the camp’s horrific history. Children under 12 are not permitted.

In these rooms, I learned of medical experiments performed on the prisoners. It was overwhelming and devastating.
This experience may not be for you. But I’m glad the camp still stands and allows the public to tour. It’s hard to look at and immerse yourself in, but if we don’t, we risk history repeating itself.
On the day I was there, most of the visitors were groups of German high school students. I wonder how often they have to study their history. Do they wait until their children are over 12?

That would have been a difficult tour for me.