Remember how I told you flight attendants get to know cities one bite at a time? Well, make that one pint at a time.
A while back, a few of my flying partners went on a pub tour in London. They had such a good time that they bought the book and have continued the tour on their own.
For over a year now, they have been visiting pubs across the city, getting to know different neighborhoods, loads of locals, and a ton of British history. Last week, I was lucky enough to tag along as we hit two VERY old pubs along the River Thames. Both date back to the 1500s (the reign of Henry VIII), and both were frequented by Charles Dickens. I’m guessing he lived in the neighborhood?
First up was a pub called The Grapes. I understand Mr. Dickens enjoyed the occasional “table dancing” here. I doubt the dancers were actually stripping in those days, but who knows? Nowadays, entertainment is in the form of trivia night. At least it is on Mondays, which was the day we visited. Locals (and a few tourists) form teams to battle over trivia and win free rounds of drinks. My favorite team name: Make America Great Britain Again. Ha!
Our group of five American flight attendants, calling ourselves Honey Sticky Balls, came in dead last. Playing alongside us was co-owner, Sir Ian McKellen. You may know him better as Gandalf from The Lord of the Rings. If you’re a fan of the franchise, you’ll want to check out Gandalf’s staff hanging behind the bar.
And when you visit, you’ll also want to order the chunky chips (so good!) and sit for a spell out on the back porch overlooking the river.
The second pub we visited was The Prospect of Whitby, London’s oldest riverside inn, built in 1520. Since then, it has served everyone from pirates to royals -and of course, Charles Dickens.
A plaque points out Her Royal Highness Princess Margaret’s favorite table.
Which, by the way, is in a room once used for boxing matches and cock fighting. Pub entertainment sure has changed over the years.
Of course, this pub is haunted. But there’s so much more to this place, like its pewter-topped bar.
Commonplace in the 1800s, it’s one of the few (and the longest) to have survived. Just like The Grapes, The Prospect of Whitby has multiple levels filled with fireplaces, cozy nooks, and picture windows framing the river. Be sure to walk around and check it all out, but watch your step. The 500-year-old flagstone floor is so uneven I felt drunk walking on it.
And I wasn’t drunk.
This cozy room once hosted smugglers and pirates, including Pirate Captain Kidd. Things didn’t work out for the Captain. Ultimately, he was hanged out back at Execution Dock. He was then tarred and feathered, hung in a cage, and left there for three years to serve as a warning to all sailors who passed down the river. A noose commemorates this gruesome part of history. You can view it from the deck, or if the tide is out, you can walk down to the sandbank.
The alley next to the pub leads to a staircase.
Which could lead to mudlarking and another blog?
Mudlarking: treasure hunting on tidal riverbanks for historical objects like Roman coins and Medieval jewelry. It requires a permit from the Port of London Authority. I wonder if they’d issue a permit to a nosy flight attendant from San Francisco?
Hmmm, where next?