This summer, America is turning 250 years old. Rome, on the other hand, is turning 2,780. That may be very old, but it’s all new to me.
So far, I’ve had four glorious layovers in this ancient city. What do you do with 24 hours in Rome?
1st 24:
The Colosseum, of course.
The Colosseum was built between 72 and 80 AD as a gift to the public. For 4 centuries, it hosted spectacles and events such as morning animal hunts, midday executions, and afternoon gladiator fights.
Here’s a tip. Book the last time slot of the day. We had the place nearly to ourselves.
2nd 24:
Trevi Fountain and the very slippery Spanish Steps.
Don’t forget to bring a coin, or 2 or 3 depending… one coin over your left shoulder to return to Rome, two to find a new romance, and three to marry. Visitors toss about 21,000 euros into the fountain every week, equalling roughly 1.7 million dollars annually. So I’m guessing most visitors wish to marry?
When in Rome, forget trying to look cute from your ankles down. The cobblestone streets and marble steps (throughout the city) demand stable shoes and undivided attention.
3rd 24:
The Vatican.
For my third layover, I booked a tour of the Vatican. But between booking and going, Pope Francis passed away. I did end up going to the Vatican, but not for a tour. I, along with 250,000 other mourners, lined up to view Pope Francis lying in state and pay our respects.
Pope Francis wanted to be in a simple casket on the ground, not elevated, not above the people. So, after standing in line for over an hour, unable to see anything but the person in front of me, suddenly there he was. I became emotional. Maybe because of the surprise?
Since then, I have visited his tomb in the Basilica of Saint Mary Major. It is characteristically modest -with a single white rose placed on it daily to honor his faith.
4th 24:
Walking, walking, walking. But don’t worry, there are fountains throughout the city constantly streaming drinking water so you can stay hydrated.
Coming from drought-stricken California, this is nothing short of a marvel. I have dozens of pictures of these fountains all over the city because they never stop amazing me. The water doesn’t shut off!
Our walk took us from Santa Maria Della Vittoria, a gorgeous church.
with this Bernini masterpiece.
We dipped into another stunning church. (didn’t catch the name)
Then, we continued down Via dei Fori Imperiali -or what I refer to as Ruin Boulevard. This modern street cuts right through and over the top of excavated Roman ruins such as these…
Along the way, we passed the Theatre of Marcellus, which looks like the Colosseum, but is much smaller.
This structure is actually about a century older than the Colosseum. It was built by Julius Caesar in 13 BC and originally served as an open-air theater. Today, it is home to a few lucky people who live in the converted apartments on top.
I like this picture because it shows three distinct eras of construction in a single ancient building.
Finally, we ended up in the Jewish Quarter, where we settled into an amazing dinner of homemade pasta.
And where I was introduced to the Jerusalem Artichoke.
It is seasonal, and it is divine. Every table had one. I wish our table had had two.
This is an authentic neighborhood restaurant. The menu is handwritten in Italian. Ordering was a challenge, and somehow so was paying, but the experience and the food make it a worthwhile destination if you care to re-trace our steps.
If you do visit this part of town, take note of these plaques embedded in the sidewalk facing residences throughout the Quarter. They commemorate the people taken to concentration camps during World War II.
On the walk back to the hotel, we happened to pass another major archeological site: Largo di Torre Argentina. This sunken square of Roman temple ruins is where Julius Caesar was assassinated. Currently, it is home to hundreds of stray cats. Remarkably, this historically significant site is used as a no-kill cat sanctuary. So cats roam all over the 2,000-year-old ruins!
If you’re planning on visiting Rome, my final recommendation is to stay here.
This 5-star boutique hotel is ideally situated down a cobblestone lane, close to all major attractions, and features a beautiful rooftop terrace. But the real attraction (for me, anyway) is that the hotel is built directly over Roman ruins. A subterranean crypt of ancient brickwork, arches, columns, and stone carvings is now a private lounge for hotel guests.
This, of course, is not our layover hotel. This is just a place we stumbled upon. Because that’s how Rome is; you walk around, and ancient ruins are literally everywhere.
This is our layover hotel.
It’s cute and playful.
Just like the mannequins in Rome.
And the souvenirs.
My impressions of Rome:
1. Ancient. Rome is so mind-blowingly old, it feels mythical.
2. Romantic. I’m sorry, Paris, but Rome is the most romantic city I’ve ever seen. As Anatole Broyard once wrote, “Rome was a poem pressed into service as a city.”
3. Dirty. The walking can be strenuous and the heat oppressive, but gelato serves as a welcome remedy. The only problem is I can never find a spot I’m willing to sit down in to enjoy it.
4. Religious. There seems to be a church on every corner, and they’re all active! Wouldn’t you think the Vatican would be enough?
5. Unsatisfied. That’s me. I will return. I can’t yet imagine getting enough of this poem of a city.