Paris: une lettre d‘amour

I have a request from my most faithful reader, my mother, to blog about her favorite city, Paris. As one of my favorites as well, I am delighted to do so. The only reason I haven’t blogged about it sooner is that it’s a little overwhelming -just like the city itself. If Paris were a woman, she’d be the sexiest, most sophisticated, mysterious woman in the room. She’s drop-dead gorgeous. So, I think the story of Paris is best told in pictures because I don’t have the talent as a writer to match her beauty in words. 

Where in the world was Paula before Covid changed everything? Paris. I spent most of 2019 laying over there, exploring her neighborhoods and restaurants. 

My most recent layovers were mostly spent in the area of Montmartre: a charming neighborhood with steep, winding streets lined with artists and cafes . One of my favorite cafes, Moulin de la Galette, is tucked under the Moulin (windmill) Radet. It used to be a dancehall and appears in paintings by Renoir and Van Gogh among others. And, of course, Sacre Coeur is a treasure not to be missed.

This really happened inside Sacre Coeur.

You may want to pick up a souvenir or sit for a portrait in the artists’ square. La Mere Catherine is one of the cafes surrounding the square. I ordered my “go to” beef bourguignon. And, YES, I bought the plate!

Or you might want to go to a bistro and order another French classic dish: steak tartare.

But if you’re feeling fancy, Paris has many Michelin-starred restaurants.

Paris was changing me. I started dressing better, wearing scarves and perfume. I started eating better and probably gaining weight. But I was gaining weight the right way, on butter and cheese. I did my grocery shopping there, lugging back bread, butter, cookies, cheese, wine. I collected bottles of French aperitifs for my bar and scoured antique stores for vintage aperitif glasses. I even started taking French lessons. I was falling hard, head-over-Louboutin-heels in love with that city. Every week I would come home, bring my mom treats, and tell her all about my layovers. Eventually, she’d heard enough. She decided she wanted to go see for herself.

Paris is truly a bucket-list destination and, if possible, everyone should see it in their lifetime. My mom waited until she was nearly 80. My brother and his wife planned a two-week trip to Paris and suggested I bring Mom on one of my layovers to meet up with them. On my 24 hour layover? I thought this was a terrible idea. The trip is exhausting, even for me. How would my mother manage the long flight, the time change, the jet lag? And did I mention that she walks with a walker? But no one was listening to me. She expedited her passport and off we went. 

Mom said all she wanted to do was to sit in a cafe and smoke. So, I googled, “Paris’ prettiest cafes.” We met my brother, his wife, and my nephew at the first cafe, Odette, in the Latin Quarter under the shadow of a burned-out Notre Dame.  We had an amazing pastry there for which they’re famous and then we ubered to another cafe recommended by my brother. Finally, we ended up at the cafe, Les Deux Magots, a former hangout of Julia Child, Picasso, and Hemingway. There, I bought her the perfect souvenir… an ashtray.

 Along the way, Mom wandered into shops, bakeries, and Paris’ oldest church, Saint Germain Cathedral.  She said it was perfect and I think it was.

You may be wondering, reader, how my 80-year-old mother fared on her 24 hour trip to Paris. Great! I was wrong to worry. She was a trooper and, I think, slept even less than me. My crew was wonderful to her. And I’m so grateful no one listened to me and that she came because that trip with my mother is now my fondest memory of Paris.

But allow me to share just a few more fond memories.    

On one of my layovers, I attended a ballet in the magnificent Opera Garnier. 

The ballet was truly a feast for the eyes. The house itself is over the top from the grand staircase to the four tiers of private box seats. Entrance into the private box requires a key and attendants stand poised to assist. As I entered, I felt transported back to a more opulent and romantic time. Also, I felt rich! How could I not? Settling into my red velvet chair, my eyes were drawn up to the spectacular ceiling painted by Marc Chagall and the 8-ton chandelier that inspired Phantom of the Opera. And then the ballet started. . . . Exquisite. Unparalleled. Breath Taking. and Rich. The entire experience was almost a sensory overload. And that’s the thing about French architecture, design, food,.. it’s almost too much. All you have to do is look at a French pastry to appreciate what I’m trying to say. The Mont-Blanc from Angelina’s is the perfect example. It embodies the French aesthetic. I mean it’s gorgeous to look at, the flavor is mysterious, just out of reach, and you can’t finish it.. It’s too rich! Mont-Blanc from Angelina’s… do it. 

And for sure do the ballet! Even if you don’t like the ballet, the opera house should not be missed.

2019 was all about Paris. 1. I bid it nearly every month. 2. I took my mother. 3. My son participated in a youth exchange with the teenage son of my French co-worker. We decided to turn the “drop-off” of my son into a quick family vacation. As a family, we visited the Catacombs which was a very disturbing experience. The catacombs date back to pre-revolution, when Parisians moved countless human remains underground to combat disease. It’s a labyrinth of underground tunnels stacked neatly, and sometimes artistically, with skulls and bones. This is the only picture I took because it felt disrespectful. I know attitudes toward death are cultural, but it seems strange that the final resting place of so many souls has been turned into a tourist sight. Incidentally, they check your bags on the way out. Even more disturbing …who would steal bones?

Of course, we had to go to Versailles, but it was the middle of summer and the crowds were horrendous! They let WAY too many people in. In fact, I had to get uncharacteristically aggressive to fight our way in before our timed tickets expired. But then, feeling claustrophobic, I had to fight our way out. The crowds drove us into the gardens. Luckily, it started pouring rain which resulted in us having the place almost to ourselves. Empty, quiet, and very cool.

On our last night, my daughter and I went to the Moulin Rouge. That was a real highlight. The ballroom itself is so exactly, perfectly gorgeous. It looks just like you want it to, like a visual French pastry. They sat us at the end of a long, shared table with two champagne flutes, an ice bucket, and a very good bottle of champagne. The show is charmingly kitschy. I loved it, especially the CAN CAN. Recommendation: Don’t go for dinner. It’s mediocre and over-priced. The cocktails-only ticket includes a bottle of Champagne for two. And that’s perfect.

We also visited Sainte Chapelle with its stunning stained glass windows. Even my teenage son was impressed.

Before Notre Dame was burned, I had the awesome opportunity to view one of its sacred relics: Jesus’ crown of thorns. This precious relic is only displayed during the high holy days around Easter.

I could hardly believe what I was seeing.

Speaking of the Louvre… Paris is hoarding much of the world’s great art. There are MANY fantastic museums, but one of my favorites is Musee Rodin.

The Rodin museum is located in Hotel Biron in the center of Paris. The building, itself, is gorgeous and worthy to house the magnificent art collection donated by the artist to the French State. The collection consists not only of Rodin’s works, but also of works from his personal collection by his friends and contemporaries, such as, Van Gogh, Monet, and Renoir. But what I love most about the museum is the grounds. Surrounding the beautiful Hotel Biron is a sculpture garden. Order a glass of rose from the outdoor cafe and sit down for awhile to enjoy the masterpieces inside of this walled-in garden.

My other favorite museum in Paris is the Wine Museum. This unique museum tells the history of wine through the display of thousands of artifacts. But the setting is the most exciting part of the tale: the museum is housed inside ancient limestone quarries first used by monks in the 15th century to store their wine and then later used by kings. But that’s not all. It’s also a restaurant where they offer wine tastings and occasionally classes on wine and fine food.

This place is a favorite among flight attendants. The first time I went, I invited myself to tag along with my flying partner. and I’m so glad I did. She was the perfect person to go with because she is friends with the owners. Since then, we’ve become good friends and I’ve been back several times. Lunch is always a three-hour affair with the best French food I’ve eaten in Paris. And, of course, each course is paired perfectly with delicious wine, many from their own chateau in the Gaillac region. The owners sit with us, the chef comes out to talk to us, and it always feels like a celebration. They make their own foie gras and it is simply The Best. They also make their own gelato. OMG! I don’t even like gelato. The food doesn’t have to be that good, the novelty of eating inside ancient wine caves where former kings stored their wine is enough, but it is that good. Go for lunch, a class, a tour, or just for a tasting. But go to this restaurant inside of a museum inside of a royal wine cellar inside of ancient underground tunnels. How could you regret that experience?  

My final recommendation is a day trip to Giverny: Monet’s gardens. I went to Giverny on a layover with one of my favorite flying partners, Bridget. There, we saw the ponds, the bridges, the lily pads, as well as, his house and studio. It’s a beautiful, surreal experience. I felt as though I were stepping into one of his paintings. I loved it and would love to visit in all seasons, especially with Bridget who has a joie de vivre and cracks me up. It’s a train ride and then a bike ride from the city. On our bikes, we stopped at a farmer’s market for lunch where Bridget started flirting with the man selling cheese. Her pickup line… “Do you like cheese?”

Whether you have a lifetime or just 24 hours, Paris charms. And whether you take any of my suggestions or just sit in a cafe and smoke, Paris is worth the effort. Just ask my mother who spent as much time on the plane as she did on the ground and had to roll around that cobbled ground with a walker. Go. See what you see. I’m sure it will be perfect.