In My Own Backyard: California Coast

“Wherever you go, go with all your heart.” Confucius

Lately, my heart has been at the beach. I can’t get enough of it. The beaches in Northern California aren’t necessarily sun-drenched. They can be. But they’re more likely overcast. The terrain is varied, and the weather is unpredictable. It can be sunny and warm or freezing and windy, even in the summertime. It’s both wild and peaceful, and it makes me feel good. As summer is coming to a close, I thought I’d share some of this beautiful coastline in my own backyard. 

Driving anywhere along Highway 1, winding along the ocean is a perfect way to spend the day. One particularly scenic stretch is the famed 17 mile drive in Carmel. It’s actually a neighborhood you have to pay to drive through -unless you’re a resident. But it’s worth the price of admission ($10.50) to see the houses, the Pacific Ocean, and Pebble Beach Golf Resort. This is where the rich and famous live and play. While you don’t have to be famous to play, it does help to be rich. Pebble Beach may be a public golf course, but it’s a very exclusive one. However, if you love golf and have around $1000 in discretionary funds, go for it. And if you have another thousand, I recommend you book a room at the resort. 

I don’t golf, and I don’t have an extra $1000 laying around, but I have stayed at the resort. My husband, a musician, played a New Year’s Eve party and the gig included a suite. The room was gorgeous. It had double french doors that opened onto a private patio, a massive bed that slept all four of us (our kids were little at the time), and a stocked minibar. Everything in the minibar was complimentary! When my husband went to the gig, I turned on the fireplace, laid down our luxury spa towels, and spread out a picnic. The kids and I ate everything single thing in that minibar. But I didn’t drink everything in the minibar -at least not that night. I’m a good mommy.

Drive a little further up the road, and you’ll arrive in Monterey. The Monterey Bay Aquarium is world-class, but I also enjoy Cannery Row and the wharf. You can spend the day or the weekend. 

Closer to home is Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, home of the Big Dipper: an old wooden roller coaster that’s been around for generations. In fact, my grandma used to ride it when she was young. And that’s why I’ve never been on it. A 100-year-old wooden roller coaster doesn’t sound like a good idea to me. But the bumper cars, now that’s a good idea. 

Another good idea is the clam chowder on the wharf. Santa Cruz wharf is right next to the boardwalk. Sometimes I don’t even go to the beach; I just go straight to the clam chowder. I recommend Dolphin restaurant located at the end of the pier. Go to the take-out window and order whatever you like (clam chowder), and then sit on one of the benches and take in the view.

These are sea lions under the pier. However, they’re less like lions and more like puppies…they nap all over each other, they bark, and they stink. 

There are a few other beaches I like to go to -each has its own vibe. 

Pismo Beach. Pismo is surrounded by dunes, farmland, a tiny laid-back town, and plenty of free parking.

Manresa State Beach is a little bit of a hidden gem. Bring $10 exact change to park in the main parking lot. Or do what I do: Drive towards the campground. At the fork, veer to the right and park for free in that neighborhood. You can access the beach from the stairs tucked between the condos. Or better yet: camp. That way, you can get up early and beat the birds to the sand dollars. 

Seacliff Beach is another favorite of mine. This beach is also a state park, so bring your $10. And get there early so you can park in the lower lot. The overflow lot is on top of the hill with a VERY long staircase down to the beach. Depending on the weight of your cooler, this can be a really big bummer. 

Seacliff has a sunken WW1 ship at the end of its pier. What’s a WW1 concrete tanker doing there? Good question. I looked it up.

The ship was completed at the war’s end, so it never went into service. It was moved to its current location by an entrepreneur who purchased the warship and turned it into a seaside attraction with a restaurant, a dancehall, and a pool. However, that venture went bust during the Great Depression, and now it sits and rots.     

Capitola is another great beach. The town is very charming and super crowded, so go early and practice patience. But it’s worth it; it’s popular for a reason. 

However, if you crave nature and wildlife, you’ll want to check out the tide pools, as well as Ano Nuevo.

The tide pools at Fitzgerald Marine Reserve are amazing. You’ll see hermit crabs, sea urchins, starfish, abalone, and maybe even an octopus if you’re lucky. When I was a teacher, I’d always take my class here even if it didn’t easily tie into the curriculum because I knew most of the kids would never go there otherwise, and it’s just so cool.  

Ano Nuevo is another treat. This is a state park and nature preserve where you can view elephant seals year-round. December through March, you have to make a reservation and go with a guide. April through November is self-guided. Whenever you go, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, be prepared for a bit of a hike. It’s about 3-4 miles, and the last part of the trail is in the sand, which can be challenging for the young, the old, and the out of shape. Secondly, you may want to consider the breeding cycle when planning a visit. And you may want to consider braving the cold winter weather because that’s when all the action takes place. The park is closed the first two weeks of December to allow the pregnant females to come ashore and give birth. Mothers nurse until early March, but the pups stick around for a few more weeks. During this same time (Dec/Jan), the massive male bulls battle it out for the privilege of mating with the females. The bulls weigh up to 5,000 pounds, so this must be quite a show. I’ve never been in winter, but I’ll try to go this year and report back. 

My final recommendation for your consideration: spending the night in a lighthouse. There are two lighthouse hostels in my own backyard: Montara Lighthouse, 25 miles south of San Francisco, and Pigeon Point Lighthouse, 50 miles south of the city. I’ve stayed at both. It’s a very cool opportunity, but it’s rustic. If you prefer luxury or even comfort, this may not be for you. I remember lying in my bunk bed listening to mice running behind the walls above my pillow. I think I crawled into my daughter’s bunk. I also remember having to pitch in and do some light chores. But hey, they’re hostels, so the price is right.   

This is, of course, not a comprehensive list of all Bay Area coastal points of interest. But that’s the beauty of a blog; I can come back and edit it at any time. So before you head out to the coast, check back. I may have discovered a new spot you won’t want to miss. Or better yet, add your favorites in the comments.