London

Yesterday on the news, an expert (he wasn’t a scientist, maybe a historian, definitely an author) said, “Pandemics don’t last forever. This pandemic will end.” I was pleased to hear this because I’ve been feeling like we’re never going to get past this. It’s been 18 months, and I still don’t see an exit. Sure, things are better. We can leave the house. We can fly domestic. We’re watching sports and attending school. But at what cost? I still tense at a stranger’s cough. A sneeze makes me angry. And how long will it take for the entire world’s inhabitants to be vaccinated? Polio isn’t even eradiated yet! 

What does all this have to do with London? Nothing. Other than feeling like I’m never going to go there again. Because the pandemic still seems endless and our futures continue to feel precarious, I have made up my mind to stop waiting. I’m not going to wait to write about this city until I see her again. Likewise, I’m not going to wait for an appropriate occasion to wear my finest clothes and my formal jewelry. Today (and every day) is the day. The wait is over. So go put your best dress on, we’re going to London. 

London is a world-class city -right up there with New York and Paris. For an American, London is both totally foreign and completely accessible. Unlike other English-speaking destinations (Australia and Canada) that feel too familiar, England transports the American tourist with its pomp and circumstance. I love the edgy British sense of style as well as their pub culture. I think their history is fascinating and the architecture is gorgeous. But what really makes London distinctive is the monarchy. The royal family, the palaces, the pageantry are unique and spectacular. So in this blog (because I’m feeling fancy), I’m focusing on the royal sites you won’t want to miss on your next trip to London.

Obviously, you have to go to Buckingham Palace for the changing of the guards. When you’re there, look up. If the Queen is in residence, the royal flag flies above the palace. If you see the Union Jack flying, she’s not home. Once a year, in summer, she opens the doors of her home to tourists (probably when she leaves on holiday). My flying partner and I had planned to do this in 2020. Needless to say, that never happened. But according to the expert, this pandemic won’t last forever…

One palace I have toured is Kensington Palace. This was Princess Diana’s former residence following the divorce. Currently, several members of the royal family live here, including Will and Kate. 

Not far from London is Windsor Castle, where the Queen often goes to escape the city. This is also where Harry and Meghan were married. It’s a proper castle, and it’s also open to the public.

Another short train ride from London will take you to Henry VIII’s former residence, Hampton Court, where he lived with all 6 of his wives. This medieval castle has an entirely different feel and extensive and stunning gardens with an original 300+-year-old hedge maze. The maze is no joke. I think I’d still be in there if it weren’t for my flying partner.

But if you only have the time and patience for one castle, you have to go to the Tower of London. The Tower of London was built by William the Conqueror in the 1070s. Over the centuries, it has served as a fortress, a royal palace, and an infamous dungeon where prisoners were kept awaiting the guillotine. Nowadays, it’s used to house (and protect) the Crown Jewels. Beefeaters will give you a tour and tell you all the gory details. Then, you’ll jump on a moving sidewalk to view cases filled with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, crowns, scepters, and swords. Oh My! 

The royal mews is another worthwhile stop. These are the Queen’s stables, where she houses her royal horses, carriages, and coaches. It’s not only a working stable; it’s a busy garage. Here, the Queen also keeps her fleet of Bentleys, Rolls Royces, and limousines. Everything is in constant use, and there’s a lot of activity, but you can still tour. Go. Watch the horses train, see the details inside of the ceremonial carriages, and have a peek behind the scenes at the endless grooming and polishing of horses, carriages, cars, saddles, and gold buttons. The liveries (those gorgeous coachmen uniforms) are also housed and cared for here.    

Finally, I can’t blog about London and not mention Churchill’s War Rooms. This isn’t a royal site, but just as the Tower of London, it is not to be missed. This was the secret underground command center for the war. You will see Churchill’s bunker, the cabinet room where he and his generals debated strategy, the desk and microphone where he broadcasted his radio addresses to the nation, the “phone booth” with the direct line to President Roosevelt in the White House, and the Map Room where intelligence was collected and communicated. Color-coded push-pinned maps provided a visual account of the daily gains and losses. The desks are lined with rotary phones and littered with cigarettes and ashtrays. It’s a time capsule; everything is left untouched from the war’s final day.   

While I have much more to say about London (and one day no doubt will), this entry rounds out my top-three-world-class-city layovers: New York, Paris, and London. In closing, I leave you with one final anecdote. 

A few years ago, walking along the Seine in Paris, I bumped into my favorite street artist, Swoon. She was taking a break from installing an art piece. When I saw her, I thought, “This would only happen in New York, Paris, or London.” Because in these three cities, the extraordinary IS the ordinary. 

These three cities are not only comprised of a high concentration of people; they are populated with a high concentration of the world’s most interesting and talented people. They flock to these centers of creativity. And because they’re clustered in these places, you will have more extraordinary experiences when you visit. It’s just math. It’s the law of probability. So, when you are able (when this pandemic is finally over), take a trip to one or all of these crowded cities. 

And pack your party clothes and accessories because, as the fashion icon Iris Apfel, says;

“More is more. And less is a bore.”