Emerald Bay and the end of summer    

Every summer for the past 22 years, my extended family and I have rented a cabin in Tahoe. My daughter’s entire life. My son’s too, for the matter, but he wasn’t around for the first 4 years.

The summer of 2000, I was a tired, healing, bundle of nerves. I asked the doctor for permission to take my 6-week-old baby girl on a five-hour car ride up into the mountains. It seemed like such a scary thing to do. Just as terrifying as giving her a bath and cutting her tiny little nails. We had a full house that year, an extended version of the extended family, because everyone was so excited about the new baby. 

You’re probably thinking, “A flight attendant, who can go anywhere in the world, goes to the same place every year? She must really love it.” I don’t.

I don’t particularly care for Tahoe. Sure the Lake is pretty, but I think as a vacation destination, it’s kind of boring. But that’s just me. I’m not outdoorsy, and I don’t gamble. But my family loves it. And I love my family. So every year we go. We hot tub (I like that). We swim, fish, hike, ride bikes, and play cards.

But this year, we did something we’ve never done. Something the whole family enjoyed. We visited Emerald Bay. I can’t believe we waited 22 years. It’s probably the most photographed, recognizable part of the Lake. It’s on every other postcard. And for a good reason. Emerald Bay is one of the prettiest parts of Tahoe. That’s why uber-rich Lora Josephine Knight bought the property in 1929 and built her summer home, Vikingsholm, on the water’s edge. 

As well as a 16×16 teahouse on the island. Which looks like a mini castle perched on the tip. 

These days, the teahouse is in ruin. It has been vandalized over the years and is now, just a shell.

The only access to this mini castle, teahouse is by private boat or kayak. Since our cabin didn’t come with a boat, we rented kayaks. Paddling out was easy, but docking wasn’t pretty. There’s no beach. You have to pull your kayak up onto the rocks so it won’t float away, and then you have to rock climb to get to the teahouse. There’s no trail. At least not anymore. But it must have looked very different in 1929 because I can’t imagine Mrs. Knight doing any of this.   

Mrs. Knight was a wealthy, matronly widow who loved Scandinavian design. She thought this architectural style fit well into the surrounding mountains, cedars, and pines. In fact, she wouldn’t allow a single tree to be removed during her home’s construction. This posed a challenge for her architect, but he worked it out. She and her architect, Lennart Palme ( a Swede and nephew by marriage), traveled to Denmark, Finland, Norway, and Sweden in 1928 to collect ideas, furniture, and antiques for Vikingsholm. 

They returned to incorporate architectural elements from Viking temples, castles, and peasant homes, such as this sod roof installed over one wing of the courtyard’s outer buildings.

Emerald Bay is now a state park, and Vikingsholm, with all its original furnishings, is open to the public during July and August. The tour is self-guided so you can poke around the house at your own pace. It includes formal living rooms downstairs, bedrooms and sleeping porches upstairs, as well as, servants’ quarters and an adorable 1930’s working kitchen.

Each bedroom had its own bath, equipped with state-of-the-art indoor plumbing. I imagine that must have been the real luxury of Vikingsholm.

But I think my favorite part of the house may be this closet.

Emerald Bay was the highlight of our trip this year. We kayaked, hiked, paddleboard (not as easy as it looks), (some of us) jumped off the dock into the Lake, and (one of us) went on a house tour. Finally, something for everyone. 

As opposed to Shakespeare on the Lake and picnicking under the stars. Guess who chose that activity? 

Side note: The Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival takes place every summer on the beach of Sand Harbor -another state park and beautiful part of the Lake. It’s such a unique setting and experience; I highly recommend it. But my family would disagree. 

However, my family and I go almost every year because I love it. And they love me.