The ferry to the Statue of Liberty makes two stops: 1. the statue …obviously 2. Ellis Island.

Viewing the Statue of Liberty is a must. Climbing up its crown is an option.

However, in my opinion, the most interesting and memorable stop is number two. Especially if you like history. 

History is palpable on Ellis Island. As you enter the building, you walk directly into the luggage room. Large crates from who knows where, once belonging to who knows who, are stacked in the center of the room. A reminder of the 12 million immigrants who passed through these doors clutching their worldly belongings. 

The newly arrived were lucky to have a trunk full of things. Many of these souls had nothing, not even shoes when they landed on the island. For instance, my tour guide’s great grandfather came here with only $5 in his pocket. “Tired, poor, huddled masses yearning to breathe free?” For sure. But these people were surely also scared to death. They were probably confused and overwhelmed, but undoubtedly full of hope and very, VERY brave.  

Upstairs, in the Registry Room (Great Hall), you can allow your imagination to feel the weight of those emotions. With the help of historical pictures, you can see what the room used to look like: rows of benches crowded with huddled masses, speaking dozens of languages, anxiously awaiting their 6-second interview. Maybe you can trace your people to this room? 

In six seconds, a doctor determined if the newly arrived individual (perhaps your ancestor) was healthy enough for entry into the country. Any concerns were written in chalk on their chest. The letters Pg meant suspected pregnancy, E suspected eye problem, X for suspected mental defect, and so on. 

Those individuals were sent to the hospital for further examination and sometimes care. Three percent were sent back from where they came. Three percent doesn’t sound like much unless it’s your family member. Families were separated because of illness, most likely for the rest of their lives. Only healthy people were admitted into the country because, at that time, there was a shortage of workers. America was open to people “yearning to be free” as long as they were also willing and able to be productive.  

But a chalk mark didn’t necessarily mean a round trip ticket. Many individuals were treated at the hospital. And that’s where my tour began. 

Ellis Island offers Hard Hat Tours of the unrestored outer buildings: the hospitals, infectious and contagious disease wards, autopsy room, morgue, laundry rooms, kitchen, and staff housing. These buildings are in such disrepair that hard hats and a guide are required. 

At $80, the Hard Hat Tour isn’t cheap. You can visit the Statue and Ellis Island for around $30, but if you can swing it, I recommend upgrading to the Hard Hat Tour. You get a lot of value for your money, and your ticket includes access to an art exhibition: Unframed-Ellis Island.  

French street artist JR created an art installation throughout the abandoned buildings using archival photos taken around the hospital complex, over 100 years ago.

The images are historical, human, and ghostly. They add context and emotion. As you walk through empty, decaying rooms, a narrative begins to form in your head. A reminder that these rooms were once filled with people: men, women, and children, separated from loved ones and the familiarity of home. Almost in a new country. 

So close. Would they make it? 

Paula flight attendant, New Yok City, travel

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