Eat Your Heart Out, Y’all

And pack your stretchy pants; we’re going back to New Orleans.  

I think it’s time for an update. But first, a re-cap. 

Five months ago, I bought an apartment in my favorite city: New Orleans. My family (mostly my mother) has been curious to see what I purchased. This provided the perfect excuse for a quick family vacation. 

Of course, I wanted my family to stay with me. But my brother prefers more luxurious accommodations than a blow-up mattress in a third-floor studio. Much more luxurious. He booked a room at the Four Seasons. 

My mother would have stayed with me, but three flights of stairs is a lot for her. So, I found her a room in a boutique hotel with an elevator to the 3rd floor and a private balcony where she could smoke. Perfect!

My mother came to see my apartment. My brother came to eat.

My brother, Scott, loves food and wine. Mostly wine. In fact, Scott used to rent a wine cellar in San Francisco in the early ’80s. He was ahead of his time because no one drank wine in the 1980s -especially in our family. We’re from rural southern Texas. So, where the #*&% is Scott from? Who knows? But luckily for us, he’s always been fancy like that.

Scott loves exposing and spoiling his family with fine food and wine. And this vacation was no exception. After weeks of researching and planning our meals, reservations were booked around town. New Orleans will keep any foodie happy for a lifetime, but we only had a few days…

Day 1: Arnaud’s 

This one was for me. Opened in 1918, Arnaud’s is one of the French Quarter’s oldest restaurants serving Creole cuisine. I wanted my mother to see the beautiful bar(s) at Arnaud’s. The opulent and romantic setting transports me to turn-of-the-century Paris. It’s my favorite bar in the Quarter, but dining there was a first for me. 

Their elegant dining room looked exactly as I’d expected, like old-world French New Orleans. The street-facing wall features gorgeous floor-to-ceiling beveled glass. The other walls proudly display portrait paintings of the owners, past, and present.

It just so happened that the current generation was dining directly beneath their portraits on the night we visited. 

I wonder what they ordered? Unfortunately, I wasn’t seated close enough to see.

We ordered various dishes but the two standouts were the oyster sampler and my mother’s Filet Mignon. She said it was the best steak she’d ever had. (And she’s 82) 

Day 2: Sunday Jazz Brunch at Commander’s Palace

Not hungry at all, we met up at this Garden District institution. This 7-time James Beard awarded restaurant has earned legendary status in a city with notable competition. It was Ella Brennan’s flagship restaurant. You may be unfamiliar with the Brennan name. However, if you’ve spent time dining in New Orleans, chances are you’re familiar with their food. They own many wonderful restaurants in town as a family, but Commander’s Palace was their matriarch’s crown jewel. In fact, Ella Brennan lived directly behind the restaurant. Convenient. Apparently, she installed a telephone in the restaurant’s kitchen, which she dialed nightly to place her dinner order/delivery. Ella Brennan passed away at 92 in 2018, but she left quite a legacy. 

Ella was a pioneer and a visionary. She invented the chef’s table in the kitchen and, arguably, the very idea of the celebrity chef. But Ella Brennan also knew how to have a good time. She said, “I don’t want a restaurant where a jazz band can’t come marching through.” So, maybe she also invented jazz brunch? I wouldn’t be surprised.

Brunch was delightful and delicious, but we skipped “Dessert Miss Ella’s Way”: one of every dessert on the menu, plus a bottle of champagne. See, she knew how to party. And how to generate revenue!    

Chandelier Bar at the Four Seasons

What can I say that isn’t expressed in this photo?

I guess I can say, order the martini.

For dinner, we moved upstairs to Chemin A La Mer. This elegant restaurant features grand views of the Mississippi River and upscale local cuisine by Louisiana native Chef Donald Link. I can’t say that this was one of my favorite meals, but I can say that it was one of my favorite views. And my sister-in-law won’t stop talking about the Duck Confit. Apparently, it was divine.  

Day 3: Dinner at Brennan’s 

Personally, I prefer breakfast at Brennan’s. Champagne happy hour is good too. I just think the decor is best suited for daylight. And I love their breakfast menu. But having said that, my dish was a standout. Blackened Red Fish 

I can’t even describe it. It tasted unlike anything I’ve ever had. Like smoke…

It was delicious. But the highlight was the dessert: Bananas Foster! Which, incidentally, was invented here by Miss Ella Brennan herself.  

We peeked at the party rooms upstairs before heading out for drinks. 

We started with live music on Frenchman Street and ended in a pretty courtyard bar at the Will and the Way. 

Day 3 also included a tour down the Mississippi River -a little sightseeing to work up our appetites. 

Our paddleboat stopped at Chalmette Battlefield, the 1815 Battle of New Orleans site. Despite on-board narration and an on-site park ranger, I can’t tell you anything about this place. I guess it was too hot to listen. 

Day 4 started back in nature with a swamp tour led by Ti Earl. Ti Earl was our captain, guide, and a bonafide Cajun. Having grown up in the swamp, he regaled us with wild stories while expertly pointing out wild life. Ti Earl shared heartbreaking stories about rescuing people with his boat after Hurricane Ida and Katrina. He also shared a terrifying tale of wrestling an alligator and spending three days in the ICU fighting for his life. 

That night we went to our last fancy dinner at Miss River, back at the Four Seasons. This was an excellent place to end because it was a mixture of high-end and traditional. Chef Alon Shaya refers to his menu as a love letter to Louisiana. I have to say, I felt the love. 

I ordered classic New Orleans food for this meal: BBQ Shrimp, Red Beans and Rice. When you hear BBQ Shrimp, you may think char-broiled or sweet and tangy. But no. Creole BBQ Shrimp is cooked in a rich, dark, French sauce. Please order it next time you’re in New Orleans. Promise me.

But the two standouts were the Red Beans and Rice and the Sweet Potato Rolls. My mother loved the rolls so much that they gave her a bag to take back to California. However, allow me to dedicate a moment to their Red Beans and Rice. I love this dish. I order it all the time, all over town, so I’m an expert. But Miss River’s Red Beans and Rice(!) It has corned beef in it! And who knows what other magic.   

The kaleidoscope of cultures is what excites me about this city. The mixture of old and new and their ever-evolving interpretation of Creole makes New Orleans and its restaurants world-class. Add the party atmosphere and Sign. Me. Up. New Orleans just can’t help itself. Every dining room, every night of the week, feels like a celebration. So whether you try any of the restaurants on our list or just wander into a random one, you’re not likely to forget your dining experience any time soon. 

And I’m not likely to forget this family trip “to see my apartment.”